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Hatfields – Los Angeles – Closed

Quinn Hatfield’s deft touch in the kitchen shines through on his short but dead-on, market-fresh menu. Appetizers are playful: Fabulously fleshy charred octopus is offset by a citrus-candied orange rind, and an updated croque madame features fresh hamachi, along with proscuitto, quail egg and out-of-this-world brioche. Main courses are uniformly excellent, be it juicy pan-roasted seabass, meaty duck breast that eats like a steak, and luscious, mint-crusted rack of lamb. For desserts, Karen Hatfield outdoes herself with the molten-centered house specialty chocolate peanut butter truffle cake, which is worth every decadent calorie its name promises.

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